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Room I

Reading jade

The stones, the structure, toughness, colour and light, the treatments, the look-alikes.

The stones

Two stones, one name.

Jade is a cultural name for two different minerals.

For thousands of years two different minerals were carved and honoured as jade. They look alike and both were worked by hand, yet they differ in structure, in weight and in worth. To know jade is first to know which of the two is in your hand.

Three polished jadeite cabochons on slate, from pale yellow-green to soft green
01Pyroxene · the rarer of the two

Jadeite

A dense mass of interlocking granular crystals, which is why it is so tough. It comes in green, lavender, white, orange and black; the most prized is translucent, intensely green imperial jade. Its spot refractive index reads about 1.652 to 1.688, its specific gravity about 3.30 to 3.38.

Polished green nephrite pebbles on dark stone
02Amphibole · the toughest of all natural gems

Nephrite

Felted, fibrous crystals rather than grains. Usually green, cream, grey or black, often with a greasy or waxy lustre and a splintery fracture. Its spot refractive index reads about 1.600 to 1.640 and its specific gravity about 2.90 to 3.03, so it feels a little lighter in the hand.

Close view of polished green jade showing its fine granular texture
The structure

A stone of countless crystals.

Why jade glows rather than sparkles.

Jade is not a single crystal but an aggregate: countless tiny crystals packed and interlocked, pointing every which way. It shows none of the crisp optical effects of a single crystal, no doubling and no pleochroism, only a single soft spot reading on the refractometer. Look instead for a body colour that is even and slightly cloudy rather than glassy-clear, a texture that may show a granular inner look, and, on well-polished jadeite under reflected light, a faint dimpled surface the trade calls orange peel, where harder and softer grains take the polish unevenly.

A rough stone in its dark weathered rind, a green edge showing
Toughness

Hard to scratch. Harder to break.

Hardness and toughness are not the same thing.

Hardness is resistance to scratching; toughness is resistance to breaking, chipping and cracking. Diamond is the hardest gem, yet a sharp blow along its cleavage can split it. The jades are the toughest of natural gems: nephrite, with its felted fibres, resists breaking better than anything else, and jadeite is close behind, because both are interlocking aggregates with no cleavage at all. It is why jade has been carved into fine, thin forms for three thousand years.

Reading jade

Colour, tone and light.

Three measures of colour, and the glow beneath them.

Coloured stones are not graded like diamonds: colour, not its absence, drives value. Gemologists separate it into distinct dimensions, and jade adds a quality of its own, how deeply light travels into the stone. Learn to see each apart, in neutral daylight, and every piece begins to explain itself.

Two dark green stones held over a colour reference card
01The colour itself

Hue

The basic colour and its modifier: a green may lean slightly bluish or slightly yellowish. The most prized hues are the purest, with the least brown or grey.

Hands holding a deep green block of stone
02Depth and intensity

Tone and saturation

Tone is how light or dark the colour sits; every stone has its sweet spot, neither washed out nor inky. Saturation is its intensity, from dull to vivid, and often the single most important quality: the removal of grey is what makes a green look alive.

A small flashlight held to a green cabochon
03Light within

Translucency

A transparent stone reveals; a translucent one glows. Much fine jade is translucent, passing light but blurring any image, with a lustre from glassy to faintly greasy. Hold a piece to the light and watch how far the light travels into it.

The treatments

Type A, B and C.

The question to ask of every piece of jadeite.

Treatment is not fraud in itself; what matters is that it is disclosed. For jadeite the trade uses three plain letters, and the difference in value between them is enormous. Because bleaching and dye can be hard to see, significant jadeite should be tested by a laboratory before purchase.

A rough jadeite in its weathered rind on river gravel
A

Natural

Jadeite with only traditional surface waxing. It holds its full value.

A cutter shining a small light into a green stone
B

Bleached and filled

Bleached with acid to remove brown staining, then impregnated with polymer to fill the pores it leaves. It looks fine at first, can degrade over time, and is worth far less.

Hands holding a deep green slab
C

Dyed

Dyed to add or deepen colour, often green or lavender. It is worth least, and B and C are often found together.

Every Aratama listing names the stone, any treatment, and the laboratory report once the piece is tested.

Three green and blue-green stones on slate, none of them jade
The look-alikes

Not all that is green is jade.

What else is sold under its name.

Many materials are offered as jade: serpentine, chrysoprase and other green chalcedony, dyed quartzite, and amazonite among them. Each is separated by its own properties and by lower toughness. Chalcedony reads a spot refractive index near 1.53 to 1.54, well below either jade, and a stone sold as jadeite that feels light in the hand deserves a second look. When a price seems too good for the apparent quality, the stone, or its treatment, is usually the reason.

At the loupe

Turn the stone in your hand.

Move the colour, the light and the treatment, and read what changes. Pass the loupe over the stone to look closer.

An illustration drawn by the page, not a photograph.

Colour rating
3 of 5
Translucency
Semi-translucent

Type A, natural. Under the loupe: a granular texture of interlocking crystals and, on a fine polish, a faint dimpled orange peel.

Test your eye

Six questions, from these rooms.

Answer five of six and L’Atelier will write you a certificate of reading.

What is Type A jadeite?
Which quality is often the most important in a coloured stone?
Why does jade glow rather than sparkle?
What does a laboratory report answer?
How is rough jadeite read before it is cut?
A stone sold as jadeite feels light and reads a refractive index near 1.53. What does it deserve?

The gem cannot be polished without friction, nor a person perfected without trials.

Attributed to Confucius
The next roomFrom river to reportThe rough, the cut, the laboratory, the trade, provenance.

A journey of a thousand miles begins beneath one’s feet.

Lao Tzu, Tao Te Ching

See the stones this teaching chose.

Every Aratama piece is jadeite from the Motagua Valley, its treatment and origin stated plainly.

View the collection